I would like to introduce you to the “Sansho-uo (Japanese giant salamander) of Akame Waterfall “ that appears in Shibata Renzaburo‘s work, “Gokenin Zankuro”. A dish made with “Japanese giant salamander”, which is unheard of in modern times, will be featured.
Background (repost)
The time is the late Edo period. The reign of the 11th Shogun, Tokugawa Ienari. The main character is Zankuro Matsudaira, a samurai (Gokenin) of the lowest rank, despite his prestigious family background. The hereditary stipend of this rank was “thirty hyo three fuchi (三〇俵二人扶持)” in warehouse rice. This is the equivalent of “10 ryou (10両)”, or about $30,000 in today’s prices. Of course, that amount is not enough to live on. Even the Shogun‘s direct subordinate samurai “Gokenin“, had to work hard at a second job called “Katate-waza (片手業)”. His second job is a “Kaishakunin” . It is not an execution by public punishment. When the upper class executes a criminal without publicity because of public concern, he undertakes the execution.
His father died early, but he has a mother (Masajo 麻佐女). His mother, despite her advanced age, is tremendously sturdy, healthy, articulate, a foodie, and, naturally, has an unusually large appetite. Furthermore, she strictly demonstrates the pride of her family in her manners.
She enjoys expensive feasts with impunity. This annoys Zankuro working hard at a side job that is strictly forbidden to the public. However, Zankuro admires his mother’s outstanding mastery of the kotsuzumi drum. And Masajo doesn’t play the kotsuzumi drum unless she has a sumptuous meal.
Scene
… Sumi, Zankuro’s bride, came to Zankuro’s house with a hearty meal.
When Masajo saw the dish, she did not know what it was.
“What in the world is this?”
Sumi suggested, “Try it first, please.”
Masajo took a bite and said, “My God, What a delicious dish this is!”
“I’m flattered that you like it,” Sumi replied.
Masajo asked, “This is a fish dish, but it’s not just any fish, is it?”
Sumi answered, “It is a sansho-uo (Japanese salamander), sir.” “It is a sansho-uo caught at Akame Waterfall, a sacred place of Shugen-do (修験道), established by En-no-Ozunu (役小角), located deep in Nabari, Iga. Unlike those living in mountain streams in other countries, the Sansho-uo at Akame Waterfall has been eaten by Shugen-ja (修験者/ 山伏). There is a legend that those who eat it will live up to a hundred years longer.”
“Oh, a hundred years? So you’re thinking of letting this old lady live for another hundred years. That is an auspicious intention. I would like to thank you.”
This dish is more than just braised sansho-uo. First, the fish is gutted and cleaned, seasoned with ginger juice and sake, and then stuffed with finely sliced wild boar meat that has been seared in oil. Then add apricots, herbs, and sake, and simmer until tender. After simmering for another two hours, season with salt and soy sauce.
It was a very elaborate process.
….
Foodstuffs
Oo-sansho-uo (Japanese giant salamander )
The Japanese giant salamander is endemic to Japan, inhabiting rivers in Honshu, Shikoku, and parts of Kyushu, west of Gifu Prefecture. It is the world’s largest living amphibian and can grow up to 150 centimeters in length, but in the wild it rarely reaches 100 centimeters in length, and is generally 50 to 70 centimeters in length. It was designated as a special natural monument in 1952.
Until then, they were eaten as a delicacy.Kitaoji Rosanjin (北大路魯山人), an artist and legendary gourmand, was one of those who ate giant salamanders, and wrote about them (see below).
Curiously enough, the habitats of giant salamanders in various parts of Japan and the locations of Shugen-do dojos are close together.
Sansho-uo (Salamander)
It was shipped as a Chinese herbal medicine. It is said to be effective in treating bed-wetting (nocturia) and temper tantrums in children. The name “sansho (Japanese pepper)” comes from the fact that there are some kinds that smell like sansho (Japanese pepper). It is also called “Hanzaki,” from the legend that it can be split in half and still come back to its original shape. “han” : 半 = half. “zaki/ saki” 裂 = split.
Recipe & Taste
Kitaooji Rosanjin (北大路魯山人)
1883 – 1959. Artist. One of the most famous gourmets in Japanese history. In his writings, he outlines a method for cooking Japanese giant salamanders.
1 Cut open the belly, remove the entrails, and wipe off the slime with salt.
2 Wash in cold water.
3 Rub salt into the flesh to cleanse it.
4 Rinse in water again.
5 Cut the meat into 1-1.2 cm thick fillets.
6 Add sake to the soup stock, add the meat, ginger, and scallions to it, and simmer slowly.
When the body is ripped open, it smells like sansho (Japanese pepper), but the smell disappears as it cooks. The cooking method was simple, but he had a hard time making it tender.
He also describes the taste.
.. If you were to ask me, “What is the best food among strange foods? I would have to say sansho-uo. Sansho-uo is a literal delicacy. No matter how rare it is, if it is not delicious, it is not a delicacy. There are many foods in the world that are considered rare but not delicious.
Sansho-uo, however, is both rare and delicious. This is why it can be called a delicacy in both name and reality. The taste is somewhere between that of a suppon and a blowfish, but more refined than both. It is a luxury food.
「魯山人味道」北大路魯山人（著）中公文庫 中央公論社
Rosanjin Mido” by Kitaoji Rosanjin (Chuko Bunko, Chuokoron-sha)
It must have been really delicious for Rosanjin to say so.
Geographical
Akame-taki
“Akame-Taki (Akame-waterfall)” is the general name for a series of waterfalls in a ravine in Akame Town, Nabari City, Mie Prefecture. Its official name is “Akame Shiju-hachi (48) Waterfalls”. “Akame” means red eye. In Japan, when there are multiple waterfalls in a certain area, they are often named “48 Waterfalls”. It does not mean that there are actually 48 waterfalls, but that there are “too many”. There are many theories about the origin of the number 48, such as that it was derived from the 48 characters of the “Iroha-uta (Iroha poem)” or from the “48 wishes” of Amitabha Buddha in Buddhism. For your information, Iroha-uta is an old Japanese phonetic alphabet that has been used as a model for learning kana characters. The “48 wishes” refers to the legend of the 48 wishes Amitabha Buddha made prior to his practice to become a Buddha in Buddhism. This valley has been considered a sacred place for mountain worship since ancient times. Therefore, it is said that the local people still call going to the waterfall “Taki-mairi (滝詣)”. The word “詣 (mairi/ moude)” means to visit shrines or temples. In modern times, it is also used to refer to frequent visits to influential people to lobby them or to ask for their favor. According to legend, in the Nara period (710-794), the founder of Shugen-do (mountain asceticism), En-no-Gyoja (En-no-Ozunu), practiced asceticism in this valley. The name “Akame” comes from the story that while En-no-Gyoja was struck under a waterfall and practicing asceticism, Fudo Myo-ou (不動明王) appeared riding on a red-eyed bull. However, it is said that it is only a legend and not a historical fact. There is also a legend that this area was a training ground for the Ninja, as the area around here is the home of the Iga Ninja. It seems that Ninja-related activities are more popular than Shugen-do as a tourist attraction.
Now, back to the main topic, this area of the valley is known as a habitat for the Japanese giant salamander, and there is a “Nippon Giant Salamander Center” near the entrance of the waterfall.
The existence of the Japanese giant salamander was first known to the world in 1830 (Bunsei 13: 文政13年). It is said that the individual introduced at that time was from Mie Prefecture.
In addition, the area is often used as a location for TV programs featuring the Japanese giant salamander.
In the winter, the area around the waterfall is lit up for an event. It is also a date spot.
From the above, the “Akame-taki no Sansho-uo (salamander of red-eyed waterfall)” that Masajo ate must have been a Japanese giant salamander.
However, I could not find any records of Shugen-sha (mountain priests: 山伏) eating Japanese giant salamanders at Akame Waterfall in the past.
Historical
En-no-Ozunu (役小角)
634-701, founder of Shugendo (mountain worship). En-no-Gyouja (役行者) is a title of honor.
Born in what is now Gosho City, Nara Prefecture. He resided on Mount Katsuragi and had a reputation for excellence in sorcery. After the age of 60, he was convicted and sent into exile on a tip-off that he was misleading sentient beings with his speech. Two years later, he was pardoned and returned. And he died in the inner sanctum of Ryuan-ji Temple (瀧安寺) on Mt. Mino (箕面山).
The only official record of his life is the above description in the Shoku-Nihongi (続日本紀). The rest is said to be all folklore.
At sacred sites of Shugen-do throughout Japan, there are legends that say, “This place was founded by En-no-Gyoja,” or “This is the place where En-no-Gyoja practiced asceticism”.
Ryori Monogatari 料理物語 (1643, Kanei 20: 寛永20年)
A textbook on cooking for the general public published in 1643 during the Edo period. The author is unknown. It is famous for its unprecedented style of listening and writing. It is a groundbreaking cookbook that describes the ingredients of the time and their cooking methods. It is also said to be a valuable cookbook for its time because it includes a section on beasts.
At that time, there was no such classification as “amphibians,” so they were probably treated the same as fish. Was it because they looked similar, or because their habitat was close to each other, or because they tasted similar? Unknown.
Honchou-shokkan (本朝食鑑)
This book was published in 1698 (Genroku 10: 元禄10年). It is an academic book that explains the names, properties, poisons, tastes, and eating methods of Japanese foods.
It is classified as one of the eleven species of scaleless fish that live in rivers and lakes. It is also listed in this book under the name “てい”, along with eels, loaches, and eels.
These books are very interesting descriptions, but unfortunately I can’t read them because of the ancient typeface.
Epilogue
Gourmet at Akame Waterfall. Of course, there are no giant salamanders on the gourmet menus around Akame Falls. There are many menus unique to the mountainous area, such as Sansai soba, Iga beef, and mugwort rice cakes (よもぎの草餅). The local specialty is the famous Iga beef.
Although it is forbidden to eat giant salamanders, it is possible to eat other salamander dishes. It is served as a local delicacy.
I’ve never had it, but it looks like “lizard tempura” to me.
