Title
「御家人斬九郎」 柴田錬三郎（著）新潮文庫
「Gokeijin Zankuro」 Shibata Renzaburo (Author) Shincho Bunko
Scene of Appearance
『In fact, his mother, Masajo, is a glutton.
Within an hour after eating seven bowls of grated “Jinenjo” over boiled barley rice, she was already biting into a “Rakugan”, looking as if nothing had happened.
She is about to turn eighty y.o.』
Story
The time is the late Edo period. The reign of the 11th Shogun, Tokugawa Ienari.
The main character is Zankuro Matsudaira, a samurai (Gokenin) of the lowest rank, despite his prestigious family background. The hereditary stipend of this rank was “thirty hyo three fuchi (三〇俵二人扶持)” in warehouse rice. This is the equivalent of “10 ryou (10両)”, or about $30,000 in today’s prices. Of course, that amount is not enough to live on. Even the shogun’s direct subordinate samurai “Gokenin”, had to work hard at a second job called “Katate-waza (片手業)”. His second job is a “Kaishakunin” . It is not an execution by public punishment. When the upper class executes a criminal without publicity because of public concern, he undertakes the execution.
His father died early, but he has a mother. His mother, despite her advanced age, is tremendously sturdy, healthy, articulate, a foodie, and, naturally, has an unusually large appetite. Furthermore, she strictly demonstrates the pride of her family in her manners. She enjoys expensive feasts with impunity. This annoys Zankuro working hard at a side job that is strictly forbidden to the public.
However, Zankuro admires his mother’s outstanding mastery of the kotsuzumi drum. And Masajo doesn’t play the kotsuzumi drum unless she has a sumptuous meal.
Themes/ Food/ Ingredients
Jinenjo
It is one of potato native to Japan. Its real name is Dioscoreales, Dioscoreaceae, Dioscorea, Dioscorea japonica. Its English name is Japanese yam. Another name is “Jinenjo” which means “potato that grows naturally”. It is distributed from southwestern Hokkaido in the north to Okinawa in the south. Originally, it was a wild plant. Harvest time is from November to January.
Since ancient times, it has been said to be a nourishing tonic. It has also been used in medicine. It is said that yam is a precious food because it takes a lot of time and effort to harvest it, so the amount in circulation is small. There are some confusingly named “natural varieties” Jinenjo on the market, but they are grown by transplanting naturally harvested Jinenjo into the field, and are different from “natural Jinenjo”. What is the difference between a cultivated yam and a natural yam? Is it simply because they are rare?
Mugitoro
Jinenjo grated with a mortar and pestle and poured over barley rice is called “Mugitoro”.
Jinenjo is too sticky to be poured over rice as it is. So, it is mixed with dashi (Japanese Bouillon), and then with sake, mirin, soy sauce, white miso, egg, etc. to make a soup, which is then served over barley rice.
Recipe
There are a lot of recipe sites for “Mugitoro”, or yam soup.
Jinenjo in History
In the “Nihon Shoki (日本書紀)”, there is a famous story about “Emperor Muyoshi peeling off the nails of a pregnant woman and making her dig for yam”.
In the Kojiki (古事記), it is said that there is a description of Jinenjo in the “Suijinki (垂仁記)”.
In the “Konjaku monogatari (今昔物語)“, there are many references to Jinenjo. For example, The story of “利仁将軍若時、従京敦賀将行五位語” is the original story of “Imogayu (芋粥)” written by Ryunosuke Akutagawa. The title means, “When the general Toshihito was young, he was given the rank of “Goi (political rank)” and went from Kyoto to Tsuruga. Many people have never read the original, but it is no exaggeration to say that there are almost no people who do not know this story in Japan.
Cultural/ Regional
The “Tororo jiru (yam soup)” at Maruko-juku on the old Tokaido road, which has been around since the 16th century to the present, is very famous.
https://www.visit-shizuoka.com/gokuraku/content.php?t=10
There are “local dishes” and “local gourmet foods” all over Japan. Furthermore, an event called the “Jinenjo festival” is held every year around November in various parts of Japan. This is because, as mentioned above, Jinenjo harvesting starts around November.
Curiously enough, however, “Day of Mugitoro” is held on June 16.
Relationship
柴田錬三郎 Shibata Renzaburo
Born in Bizen City, Okayama Prefecture. 1917-1978.
One of the specialties of Okayama Prefecture is “jinenjo (yam),” and the “jinenjo matsuri (yam festival) ” is held here every year. The author himself may have eaten it often, or it may have been a common food when he lived in Tokyo in the past.
